PACIFIC NORTHWEST––JANUARY 09––Big wave pro surfer Garrett McNamara, 41, of Hawaii, hugs his 12–yea
PACIFIC NORTHWEST––JANUARY 09––Big wave pro surfer Garrett McNamara, 41, of Hawaii, hugs his 12–year–old son, Titus, wearing a ski mask for warmth, as they prepare their Sea Doo personal water craft to to tow in a crew of big wave surfers at the cold water secret spot they call "the slab" in the Pacific Northwest. The slab is not so much a normal ocean wave as a sudden, violent tear in the fabric of the ocean. Veteran surfers grimace at the very sight of its disfigured shape. When it rolls out of the deep, it does not rise, but instead sucks all the water up in its path. The result is not a wall with a front and back, but a momentary hole in the sea – and a ledge in the great volume of the North Pacific ready to slam it shut. (Photo by Allen J. Schaben/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)

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